Well, the French weather site http://www.meteofrance.com is often next to useless, more benefit being gained from a chocolate teapot. Even when you look at the radar, it is wrong. However, they have excelled with their predictions of a ‘Pic de chaleur, très intense’ – an intense spike in temperature. Oh how I wish that they had it wrong, but no, it is a scorcher out there with a searing, ferocious heat that reminds me of when I lived in Australia.
I went into the garden early this morning to move my pod (to rotate the tyres) and to do the monthly battery check as well. All I can say is that I am really pleased that I am not away in my pod with the current temperature!
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It actually went just a tad higher than this!
Unfortunately tomorrow is expected to be as hot. I think I’ll go and make another tray of ice-cubes. Hopefully you have some nice weather (not too hot) where you are.
A Bientot!
The birds love my succulent lettuce …. if only they could get to them!
Dwarf French beans that seem to go on forever.
Not yet ripe …… Espelette chillies.
You cannot beat walking past and picking ripe sun-warmed tomatoes.
Climbing the small hill and entering an old gateway, I was pleasantly surprised to find a small hamlet with lovely stone houses and even a rather smart restaurant. But it wasn’t lunchtime yet, so time to keep moving.
One of the absolute pleasures of driving on the small back roads is that there is virtually no traffic (other than the odd farm vehicle) and there is no pressure to maintain a higher speed…. I hate it when the car behind is just about touching the bumper and you feel that you have to keep going faster! Anyway, I was more than happy to motor along like a ‘Sunday’ driver, able to enjoy the countryside and to take my time. By the time I arrived in Issigeac there was just enough time to have a small walk around before the midday bells announced the daily ritual of closing up shutters, downing tools and heading home for lunch, or in my case, heading to the restaurant.
It’s not a bad view, is it? Sitting outside for lunch and being waited on is my idea of being on holiday! Another very good 3-course lunch for 13 euros with plenty of choice to suit all tastes. The other thing I really like about France is that even as a solo diner, you are not hidden away in the back of the restaurant or puched into a corner. I had prime seating right on the front and Maggie was made so welcome it was almost embarrassing. Of course she lapped up the attention and greeted everyone as if it was her restaurant!
The Bishop’s Palace and 
Ancient Halle aux Grains (Market hall)
The charming ‘mushroom’ house standing alone like an island. You can’t really see it due to the vines, but it has an overhanging second storey which allowed the carts to pass through.
Monpazier – 
Monpazier – 
Monpazier – old market hall.
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Monpazier – one of the fortified gateways and typical street scene.
Monflanquin
Monflanquin – Place des Arcades
Market hall
Beaumont-du-Périgord – Porte de Luzier
Beaumont-du-Périgord
免费节点每天更新v2raymain square
This is the mediaeval fortress, Chateau de Castelnaud.
But much more important things were on our minds. Lunch! It was really lovely to see places full and people enjoying meals out as a family. The tables were shuffled and re-shuffled to maintain the 1 metre distance rule to try every attempt to fit more people in…and why not? These small places rely on tourism and need as much custom as they can get if they are to survive. I for one was more than happy to stop and eat and support them.
Lunch stop in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle.
La Roque Gageac.
I have to say that the water looked so inviting… I could happily have jumped in to cool off but it wasn’t to be, and besides, what would I do with Maggie? Honestly, a Labrador who doesn’t like water! 🙂
Life is (supposedly) safer these days and the need for mediaeval defence has long gone.
I love these old market halls. This one is really magnificent and is from the 15th century.
Great to see tourists again. These were Dutch doing a guided tour.
In this square and under the market hall are some troglodyte dwellings … amazing to think that people lived in caves on this same spot. You can visit but obviously it wasn’t possible with Maggie in tow. (Not that I was really interested).
Entrance to the original 11th century town – love the key left on the wall!
The ‘new’ town
My lonely little corner is absolutely ideal as it is an enclosed dog-friendly pitch; fenced all around with gates and plenty big enough for Maggie to run around and to explore. I haven’t come across enclosed dog pitches before and I really have to ask why don’t more people have them on site. I mean, this campsite of only 10 places has 3 specific dog ones. Admittedly they charge a bit more for them, but it’s just so convenient and stops dogs wandering around (even though a ‘dog on lead’ policy doesn’t always mean the same to the French). Seems like a no-brainer to me!
As you can see, even though I have a tiny pod, there is plenty of space. If I look in the other direction I have a lovely view over the small lake.
I really feel a bit bad calling it a lake because it is more like a great big pit dug into the ground, but it is lovely and clear and the owners said I could swim in it (seeing as the pool has been delayed by Covid-19)! I’m not too keen on that idea, and even though it’s been almost 30c, I think I’ll stay on dry land and sweat!
Looking back to the property and the site, I’m sure that you can make out a caravan to the right that is in storage.
View from the Col de la Crouzette
Étang de Lers
Aulus-les-Bains
Beautiful half-timbered buildings in Foix.
The Halle aux grains was the perfect stop to have a drink and snack, with views to the castle. Maggie was impressed with the nibbles too!
Church of Saint-Volusien
Church of Notre-Dame, Vals, built on three levels.
Vals
The Porte d’Aval
These massive ‘cakes of nougat’ command a high price! (but worth it).
Entrance to v2ray节点the Clock Gate.
The Cascades.
I would have loved a sunny day like this!
I came upon this rather crumbling but quaint former B & B…..lovely door but I won’t be staying here!
The Bishop’s Palace.
Back home, dinner cooked and a certain little lady is knackered!
Place de l’Europe
Part of the old fortified walls
Panorama of Le Mas d’Azil
Louis XIII Bridge
I LOVE the funky pollarded trees.
The River Azize as it enters the cave.
This is beside me.
As you can see it is crowded!
All ready for my week here – perfect!
Pod in situ along with Maggie in situ!
Pujols from the campsite
I’ll be back along this way on my return, so some more photos I’m sure. Next stop the foothills of the Pyrénées.
This is my ‘wild’ area with cowslips, bluebells, foxgloves and daisies
The only really good thing was that I was 50m from the sea, and when the tide was in I could hear the lovely sound of the waves lapping and breaking on the beach. Anyway, at only 16 euros a night all inclusive of power, dog charge and modern heated toilet and shower facilities, I couldn’t go far wrong. And it was only for 2 nights.
As you can see the tide was out and I have to say that I haven’t seen such an enormous expanse of mud for ages…it seemed strange that the beach was so sandy and yet just a few metres away was treacherous mud!
Hot-footing it in the shallows for a tasty snack!
I tend to not enter into political debate too much, but this picture sums up my feelings about the departure of the UK from the EU.
This robin is more than happy to sit under the feeder and get it’s fill on the seeds that drop.
One of my greatest joys is the arrival of the first daffodils…they are so cheering and even when the skies are heavy and grey, they can gladden the heart and soul. I have a good mix in the garden so I am assured of them for a few months. Another favourite has to be the primroses, of which I have loads…they just self-seed and pop up in the most unusual places.
Another self-seeder and equally as lovely are the cowslips. These are much earlier than normal. It’s all ‘wrong’!
With virtually no frosts this winter things haven’t died back and I have still got geraniums, petunias and lobelia in flower. Honestly, these are flowers associated with summer! What is going on? And roses too.
Almost overlooked but such a pretty wild flower, the celandines are starting to cover the grass verges and banks, along with sweet violets. So, there is much to enjoy in this quiet, dull season, even if Nature is all very confused! I wonder if it is just a very mild winter or is it the effects of climate change? What is it like in your part of the world?
As you can see, it’s certainly ‘micro’!
Check-in for the ferry – this doesn’t show the rain and gale-force winds.
The glorious sunrise was extremely short-lived. Even though we managed our outing, the clouds built up and within an hour of getting home the wet stuff started to fall…again! Tomorrow is December and who knows, it may be a nice start to winter.
Being France, it is also a very good reason (who needs one of those?) to celebrate with some form of party, social gathering or whatever. Locally we had a picnic! Yes, I know it’s mid-November and it is cold and wet, but this was indoors. Nine of us friends went and sensibly decided in advance who was making/cooking what. We’ve been here before and ended up with a lot of the same things! The picnic was fun, plenty of food – far too much food, and wine. A local band played (far too loudly) music from the 50’s through to the present day, the focus being on the ‘old’ hits. Their sound sytem would not have been out of place in a small stadium. Hearing-aids were hastily removed or turned off!
Unfortunately the turn out was low and as I looked around the room it reminded me of God’s waiting room. I reckon the average age was pushing 70yrs, and the sound of creaking backs, clicking hips and knocking knees gyrating on the dance floor was drowned out by the music. By 9 pm the table opposite were yawning and several were visibly nodding off. Surveying the room it was like a ‘Darby & Joan’ convention! By the end of play at 11.30pm most had gone home or had succumbed to Death, with one or two determined to compete with the band by snoring rather alarmingly. Hopefully they had a good time.
Cirque de Lescun
Le plateau Sanchèse
At the summit of the Col du Somport. (1632m)
Today the Basque shepherds seem content to ‘block’ the roads as they move their flock to new pastures, not that I was complaining. I mean, what better scenery than this?
The 15th century church of the Assomption-de-la-Vierge also known as Our Lady at the End of the Bridge
Perhaps a chilli flavoured beer?
Or a chilli coffee?
At least chilli goes with meat!
Hidden away in the folds of this wild land is the outstanding natural site of the v2ray免费机场订阅地址a canyon that was formed more than 80 million years ago. The sunshine was left behind as I entered the cool of the gorges, mosses and ferns adorning the walls and rocks. 
This is the Grotto of the Apparitions and the site of the events that took place. The spring is protected by a glass panel and you can’t actually touch the water here, but lines of the faithful, hopeful, or just interested or doubtful file past the spot. Water dripping from the rocks seems to serve as an adequate substitute for the spring water with pilgrims running their hands over the wet rocks and then wiping their heads and faces in the hope of divine intervention. Nearby there are numerous taps where you can fill bottles, wet your face and hands and drink the water.
The crowds gather (between the orange trees) to await their chance to be ‘submerged’ in the miraculous waters. The baths seem to be an integral part of the experience. There is the constant murmering of prayers and the never-ending fumbling of the rosary beads.
The view towards the 1000 year old Chateau.
Obviously no environmental concerns here!
Luminous Virgins
Statues and candles of every size (and every price)!
I think that this tops it all. I’m not sure what a 12th century Archbishop of Dublin has to do with Lourdes, but as I said, it seems that everyone is on the religious band-wagon.
As you can see there is little room for cars to pass and in a way I dreaded meeting a large truck, campervan or coach. Just imagine how pleased I was to come across this…..
There was absolutely nowhere to go and these two were locked together in a metallic embrace by their side lights. Although there is virtually no traffic on these roads, especially at this time of year, a small bouchon developped. A bouchon is a cork (as in wine bottle) but it is also a traffic-jam. How frustrating was this? I could see where I wanted to go but nobody was going anywhere very fast. Well, they jiggled and shuffled and shouted and looked. They climbed in and out of their cabs, the poor driver on the right having to climb the wall each time. Eventually, I don’t know how, like a cork being pulled from the bottle, they slipped by each other without incident. Perhaps they’ve done this manoeuvre before!
The overnight rain had fallen as snow at this altitude, and was some of the first of the season. I’d love to see it after a really good amount of snow on a crisp winter’s day.
And we’re here…at the summit of the v2ray免费机场订阅地址in glorious sunshine. 1,474 metres (4,836 feet) altitude, and just a handful of tourists.
… And down the other side.
My legs are tired now after all that pedaling! (As if).
Obviously not my photo, but it gives you a very good idea of the fortified town.
There’s a LOT of wall to get through, isn’t there? I’m not suprised it was impenetrable!
Navarrenx has also been, and still is, a major stage of the pilgrim’s route to v2ray免费机场订阅地址with the crossing of the Gave d’Oloron. 
Onwards through the glorious countryside to Sauveterre-de-Béarn, a mediaeval village and originally a walled refuge, perched above the river Oloron. In the Dark Ages this was one of the main routes to Spain due to it’s old bridge. The stone part remains with the old wooden section long gone.
The Bridge of Legend
The 12th century Tour Monréal
The 13th century 免费节点每天更新v2ray (Church of Saint Andrew)
v2ray节点
The Thermal Baths
I can happily report that I am in no need of any of these being ‘cured’!
Inside I was also amazed by the tiered wooden galleries that completely circles the nave…certainly I’ve never seen this before in my travels. I wonder if ayone else has.
My ‘home’ for the week (my room is the double windows).
Place St. Pierre, the view from my room
After driving I was more than happy to stretch my legs and to get a bit of a feel for my surroundings. The evening light was fading fast, but still a chance for some pics.
Along the Gave d’Aspe ( Gave is a mountain river)
Autumn trees in the public gardens
The old ‘lavoirs’
Following the path through the trees you come to La Barbette – a small picnic area and the site of an old mill that pressed walnuts for oil
The Barbette Mill
I have to say that it was absolutely idyllic walking along the river bank, shaded from the heat and the only sounds were the numerous birds and the water tinkling over the stones. Oh, Maggie was also rustling through the leaves, but she is a very quiet walker 🙂 It beats mowing the grass!
Nothing to see here!
Well, what a wash-out it turned to be….but not in the wet sense! We managed a short, sharp shower, a few claps of thunder and that was it. My hopes and expectations were dashed, I can tell you. Later in the evening I took Maggie out for her usual walk and she didn’t even get wet feet. The reluctant storm had moved away, taking a few minor cloud-bursts with it.
Even the lonesome partridge was getting desparate, flying into the garden to drink from the water in the pond.
Waking this morning I was woken by the glorious sound of the rain pattering on the ground outside. Thankfully it has continued for several hours today and although a spit in the ocean, it has at least given some minor relief to the garden, and dampened down the dust.
With little traffic I arrived in good time only to be left standing at the counter for 15 mins! When I did get served it took another 15 mins to check the car in. Honestly, the French have NO concept of customer service! I was told that it would take 90 mins to service the car but I knew better. With such wonderful weather I decided to walk into the city centre, at least grab a coffee and to have a whistle-stop look around Niort. The city has recently been given the rather unfortunate and rather dubious title of the ugliest city in France. Of course it is the opinion of one media writer, so not very representative at all. I have been here many times and even though it isn’t the prettiest of cities, I don’t find it ugly. There are some fine buildings, open places and tree-lined boulevards.
Perfect coffee-stop and place to people watch.
Niort’s oldest church, eglise Notre-Dame, begun in the 1400’s
Looking more like a Victorian rail station, Les Halles is a magnificent glass and steel market from 1869 which is a bustling space on market days.
The old pillori dating from the 1500’s stands on the site of the mediaeval pillory. Up until the revolution this was Niort’s town hall.
The Donjon dates back to the 12th century when, after marrying Eleanor of Aquitaine, the English King Henry II attempted to shore up his new lands by building spectacular castles like this. How much easier today’s political climate would be if the English had held onto their own little part of France! 🙂
By evening the clouds had cleared and the temperatures were back into the mid 20’s, sweatshirt discarded (but not packed away)!
The grapes are looking good and there are hopes of a good vendage. The hedgerows and trees have that lovely warm hint of yellow and brown, but I have a feeling that part of that is also due to the drought!
The swallows have started gathering on the power lines, looking more like musical notes. They will be migrating south to Africa very soon now…literally they are there one day and all gone the next.
With the change in the season, the heat of the day is lost as soon as the sun sets, but we have been rewarded with glorious sunsets that make me want to be all poetic and lyrical! Sadly I am not a poet, but I can take an OK photo. The last walk of the day with Maggie has been made all the more enjoyable with some wonderful sunsets
Hopefully you are enjoying the seasonal change wherever you are and have the chance to appreciate the beauty of the world around us.
On a more pleasant note, the trees and hedgerows have the first hint of change and with that comes an abundance of blackberries; so perfect with apples, and made into a pie. YUMMM! This year they seem to be plentiful, (blackberries that is, not pies) and I must make time to gather some before the short season is ended. I seem to remember from my childhood that they were always full of little maggots or worms, and I was put off eating them. Here they just seem to be plump and void of nasties!
There have been a few mornings when it has had a decidely cooler feel, a slight mist and even some dew. I toyed with the idea of pulling out a sweatshirt but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it. It would feel as if I was admitting defeat and accepting that summer was drawing to a close. So, shorts, T-shirt and sandals remain the order of the day! Having said that, we have entered another mini heatwave and the last 3 days has seen temps of 37c in the garden. It looks as if we will have at least another week of settled hot and dry weather. But with the cool start to the day, some of the local wildlife have taken to using every opportunity to warm up with a bit of sun-bathing.
This one is totally harmless I know, but snakes are not one of my favoured animals. Using a zoom lens is about as close as I want to get. However, they are rather beautiful, and the markings and colours show how well camouflaged they can be.
Now don’t get me wrong. This isn’t meant to sound all doom and gloom! I absolutely love the seasonal change throughout the year and each month offers something new and wonderful to see and experience in this lovely patch of rural France. I can’t wait for the glorious sight of the leaves changing colour. That, of course, will be another post, but not just yet! We don’t want to wish the year away, do we?
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For those of you that don’t know my region, I am in the 41c area (central SW France). It’s going be a bit of a scorcher and no doubt Maggie and I will get ‘walkies’ done very early in the day and last thing at night.
As the night unfolded, the sun dipped low in the sky and it progressed from blues to pinks to purples. The greedy swallows gave up their frenzied feeding and swooping and were replaced by tiny bats taking on an aerial display that felt as if we were under attack! Most of the crowd were now happily relaxed on wine and beer, the music ramped-up, some started dancing under the stars, and before long we were all clapping and singing along to pop classics by Queen, Prince, UB40, The Beatles and Elvis. Tina Turner and Abba got a look in too (but not in person)!
A great night was certainly had by all and with a deepening night sky we all turned to look at the partial eclipse of the moon, and perhaps those of us who could remember turned our thoughts to that momentous occasion 50yrs ago when Apollo 11 was launched, propelling the first people to walk on the lunar surface. Even now I marvel at that remarkable achievement which, to a then 11 year old, was pure science-fiction.
The children (and plenty of adults) played tug-of-war, both sides rolling on the ground in fits of giggles, and both side claiming they had won. The sack race was a free for all with no clear winner; taking part was all that was required. Competition was more heated by the teams playing pétanque this was taken very much more seriously!
As the sun was setting on our day here in our peaceful corner of rural France, with smiles on our faces, bellies full of food and heads a bit light from the sun and wine, and without a care in the world, it gave me a contented, warm feeling to be part of this lovely community I call home.
Fortunately the rest of the journey was without incident, but thank goodness I changed my ticket allowing me plenty of time for connections. And now I am home again, Maggie faithfully at my heels, just in case I decide to leave her again! The heat which I had hoped to leave behind has followed me, and we are in the mid-30’s with no change expected yet. Time to take it easy and absolutely no dashing around or being too organized…there is always tomorrow 🙂
The Romanesque Münster from the 11th – 13th centuries.
It wouldn’t be Bonn without a statue of Beethoven.
And of course, his birthplace!
The Rococo style ‘v2ray节点‘ (Old Town Hall, 1780) in the market square.
These pigeons had the best idea…only stupid tourists were padding around in the sweltering heat!
The Kreuzberg Church was built in 1627/28 and is considered one of the finest Baroque creations in the Rhineland. It is a pilgrimage site and as if climing up a hill in record temperatures wasn’t enough to get you into Heaven, they have a set of ‘Holy Steps’ which the devout and faithful climb on their knees.
But, the rich Baroque paintings were very beautiful and I was suitably impressed.
The interior of the church itself was blissfully cool and equally adorned with beautiful paintings and decoration. I wonder if I had done enough to earn my spot in heaven?
Now, this is my idea of heaven!
I’m happy 🙂
Even though it can be seen from almost every point in the city centre, this was the best vantage point. On the right is the Hohenzollern Bridge and was one of the most important bridges in Germany. Even under constant daily attacks in World War II, it avoided being badly damaged but in 1945 German military engineers blew it up as the Allied troops made their assault on the city.
I can tell you that the heat was reflecting off the bridge and all that metal hanging on the railings seemed to intensify it! But on we continued…
The truly magnificent and vast interior was a very welcome moment of cool relief, but unfortunately, as so often happens with famous cathedrals, the crowds push and jostle to see everything, they become ‘must sees’ and are more like going to a museum than a church. ‘Selfies’ are snapped with almost nobody actually looking at the buildings fine and graceful columns which give the interior a feeling of weightlessness, nor the beautiful stained glass windows. Admittedly I was also one of those snapping pictures, but I like to think that I did stop to admire the fine craftmanship. This enormous space has room for more than 20,000 people but I doubt if they ever see a congregation of that size.
These people had the best idea…cooling their feet in the fountains outside the cathedral
Sadly it seemed even hotter when we left but at least they were not insistent on crossing the bridge again! The station was withing spitting distance of the Dome and yet again, air-con awaited us with open arms.
We were heading upstream, and despite the temperature, there was a slight breeze which moved the air just enough to make it tolerable.
Looking back towards Bonn.
Coming into Königswinter
The 19th century Drachenburg Castle (L) and Drachenfels (R) with ruins of 12th century castle.
In Remagen we met up with Gerhard’s uncle, a wonderful character of 80 yrs with a wicked humour. After a very cheap and substantial Italian lunch, Hartmut and I took a short (shaded) stroll to visit the site of the Ludendorff Bridge often referred to as the Bridge at Remagen.
Securing the Ludendorff Bridge, undamaged, was a crucial strategic victory for the Allies in 1945. It allowed thousands of troops and vehicles to cross the vast River Rhine, and thus turn their eyes towards Berlin. Thousands of Allied troops crossed the bridge immediately after its seizure. Allied area bombing had damaged some Rhine crossings to the north, while the German Wehrmacht destroyed others in controlled explosions to slow down its adversaries.
Gerhard (L) and Hartmut (R)
The lake is a water-filled caldera, a remnant of the volcanic activity in this area and is the largest lake in the region. With the lake and land all owned by the monastery, it was an easy stroll (in the shade) to the Abbey.
The Abbey was founded in 1093 and after a very chequered history, including fire, it was re-colonized by the Benedictines in 1892. We stayed for a short pause in the almost icy cool of the Abbey for about 10 mins to hear the monks chant which was rather beautiful. I’m not religious but there was a lovely peace just sitting there listening to this beautiful sound filling the space.
If you ever go there, I can 100% recommend the small cafe on the left where you can eat really excellent cakes!
It is a mediaeval castle, built on a rock in the Eifel mountains and is only one of three on the left bank of the Rhine that has never been destroyed. The exteriors were used in the filming of ‘Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade’. (I’m full of useless info’)!
Some welcome cooling!
The last leg of this long, sweltering day was to stop in another pretty town because Gerhard had some chores to do there. We were now in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, another historic town with evidence of people here back in 1000BC. Today there are small cosy lanes with beautiful half-timbered houses.
And finally a wonderful meal and a VERY well deserved beer!
I had about 2 hrs in Paris to take the v2ray免费机场订阅地址from Montparnasse to the Gare du Nord…an easy and cheap trip, but with the underground being packed worse than a tin of sardines and increasing temperatures, I was at least grateful of grabbing a seat.
I found my seat and got myself settled for the journey. Before long an absolutely delightful old lady sat next to me. She greeted me in French and I picked up an accent that didn’t sound totally French. It turned out that she was German, but was a countess (possibly fallen on harder times as she was in 2nd class, or perhaps she was just frugal)! We chatted for a while about anything and everything, and then eventually we both retired to our books. As is often the case, I nodded off, book dropping from my hand, head slumped and I pray to god I didn’t snore or at the very worse, dribble! Mind you, with the amount of sweat I doubt if anyone would know the difference if I had slobbered down my front. After my short nap of only 20 mins or so, I woke with rivers of sweat pouring down my face, trickles of wet pooling at the base of my back and the carriage feeling 